Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Hair Conditioning Agents

Conditioning hair is critical to its sustained integrity as it inevitably weathers over time. Chemical and physical processing remove the outer lipid coating (the f-layer) and result in amino acid degradation in the cortex of up to 50%.

Conditioners are substances that increase the manageability, shine, and moisture content of each hair shaft. Modern products are designed to provide one or more of the following functions: increase the ease of wet and dry combing; smooth, seal and realign damaged areas of the hair shaft; minimize porosity; impart sheen and a silken feel to hair; provide some protection against thermal and mechanical damage; moisturize; add volume and body; and eliminate static electricity. Dry, woolly hair generally requires heavier deposits of conditioners than other hair types. The use of leave-in or “intensive” conditioners is growing. The use of moisture-retaining ingredients (humectants) such as panthenol, can be augmented by cationic ingredients (e.g., polyquarternium derivatives), which leave hair manageable.

Treatment with polymeric conditioning agents that bond to the hair at points of damage also aid in improving resistance to breakage.

Regular conditioning contributes significantly to the preservation of the external architecture and internal chemistry of each hair shaft. Frequent chemical processing makes conditioning even more important.