Even though all shampoos employ the same basic ingredients, the number of formulations on the market is diverse. This is because there are many different cleansing needs and hair types (Table 1). Shampoos designed for so-called normal hair thoroughly cleanse the scalp in persons with moderate sebum production and are best for chemically untreated hair. These shampoos are popular among men and use lauryl sulfate as the primary detergent, which provides good sebum removal and minimal conditioning. This is in contrast to dry-hair shampoos that provide mild cleansing and excellent conditioning. These products are excellent for mature hair, frequent use, and chemically treated hair since they reduce static electricity and increase manageability.
A relatively new shampoo category is the conditioning shampoo, also known as the 2-in-1 shampoo, which cleans and conditions simultaneously. Detergents used in conditioning shampoos are generally amphoterics and anionics of the sulfosuccinate type, previously discussed. These products are designed for patients with chemically damaged hair or those who prefer to shampoo frequently. Hydrolyzed animal protein is one of the ingredients added to conditioning shampoos, since it can minimally penetrate the hair shaft temporarily plugging surface defects, resulting in hair with a smoother feel and more shine. The protein can also temporarily mend split ends. Dimethicone is the other common conditioning shampoo ingredient prized for its ability to create a thin film over the hair shaft increasing shine and manageability.
For persons with abundant sebum production, oily-hair shampoos are formulated with excellent cleansing and minimal conditioning properties. These shampoos may use lauryl sulfate or sulfosuccinate detergents and are intended for adolescents or persons with extremely dirty hair. Products with this much detergency can be drying to the hair shaft if used daily in the absence of abundant sebum production.
The last major shampoo category contains products specifically designed for ethnic populations with tightly kinked hair. These shampoos are known as conditioning shampoos, since they are formulated with both cleaning and conditioning agents, such as wheat germ oil, steartrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein, lanolin derivatives, or dimethicone. Ethnic shampoos remove sebum from the hair shaft and replace it with a layer of oily conditioner to decrease kinky-hair combing friction. These shampoos are a variant of the 2-in-1 shampoos discussed earlier, since their main goal is to increase manageability and add shine. These shampoos are typically used weekly or once every two weeks. Many times an ethnic shampoo is used in conjunction with a conditioner, our next topic of discussion.